{"id":26305,"date":"2024-11-26T08:21:32","date_gmt":"2024-11-26T08:21:32","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/filmvilnius.com\/?p=26305"},"modified":"2026-04-28T09:01:23","modified_gmt":"2026-04-28T07:01:23","slug":"kino-kostiumu-dailininke-monika-vebraite-daznai-nevertiname-kiek-daug-apie-mus-pasako-rubas-kuri-nesiojame","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/filmvilnius.com\/lt\/kino-kostiumu-dailininke-monika-vebraite-daznai-nevertiname-kiek-daug-apie-mus-pasako-rubas-kuri-nesiojame\/","title":{"rendered":"Kino kostium\u0173 dailinink\u0117 Monika V\u0117brait\u0117: \u201eDa\u017enai nevertiname, kiek daug apie mus pasako r\u016bbas, kur\u012f ne\u0161iojame\u201c"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

\u201eDa\u017enai mes ir patys nevertiname, kiek daug apie mus pasako r\u016bbas, kur\u012f ne\u0161iojame\u201c, \u2013 pasakoja kino kostium\u0173 dailinink\u0117 Monika V\u0117brait\u0117. K\u016brusi tokiems Lietuvos ir u\u017esienio filmams bei TV serialams kaip \u201eRonja, pl\u0117\u0161iko dukt\u0117\u201c, \u201eTokijo teismas\u201c, \u201eStebuklas\u201c, \u201eNova Lituania\u201c ir kt. ji neabejoja: kostiumais filme taip pat galima pasakoti istorij\u0105. Pla\u010diau apie kino kostium\u0173 dailinink\u0117s specialyb\u0119  M. V\u0117brait\u0117 pasakoja Vilniaus kino biurui. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u2013 Prad\u0117kime nuo prad\u017ei\u0173 \u2013 kaip atradote kin\u0105, kod\u0117l pasukote b\u016btent \u0161iuo keliu? <\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u2013 Menai bendr\u0105ja prasme mane visuomet domino, tod\u0117l gal neatsitiktinai studijoms pasirinkau scenografijos specialyb\u0119. Atrod\u0117, kad ji leid\u017eia apjungti daugiau nei vien\u0105 menin\u0119 srit\u012f. Tuo metu, kai studijavau, scenografus ruo\u0161\u0117 tik teatrui, bet jau tada nukrypdavau \u012f kinematografi\u0161k\u0105 vizual\u0173 sprendim\u0105 tiek scenovaizdyje, tiek kostiumuose. Kino aik\u0161tel\u0117je atsid\u016briau gan atsitiktinai, kai asistuoti pakviet\u0117 Agn\u0117 Rimkut\u0117 ir Daiva Petrulyt\u0117. Taigi daugum\u0105 praktini\u0173 pamok\u0173 gavau jau dirbdama. V\u0117liau asistavau u\u017esienio kostium\u0173 dailinink\u0117mis ir prad\u0117jau dirbti savaranki\u0161kai.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Labiausiai \u017eavi tai, kad kine niekada neb\u016bna rutinos ir nuolat turi dom\u0117tis ir mokytis nauj\u0173 dalyk\u0173. Tarsi su kiekvienu nauju filmu neri \u012f neatrast\u0105 pasaul\u012f ir j\u012f narplioji po gabal\u0117l\u012f. Da\u017enai reikia gilintis \u012f istorinius periodus, tam tikras kult\u016bras, specialybes ir pan. I\u0161 praktin\u0117s pus\u0117s tai labai dinami\u0161kas darbas. Kartais juokaujame, kad filmavimo grup\u0117 kaip karavanas ar keliaujantis cirkas, niekada neu\u017esib\u016bnantis vienoje vietoje. O kostiumais filme taip pat galima pasakoti istorij\u0105. Neatsitiktinai, ypa\u010d masini\u0173 scen\u0173 dalyviai, sukuria atitinkam\u0105 laikotarp\u012f, nuotaik\u0105, \u012fveda \u012f tai, kas bus pasakojama. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u2013 Ar gal\u0117tum\u0117t pla\u010diau papasakoti apie tai, k\u0105 daro kostium\u0173 dailininkas? Kokios pagrindin\u0117s j\u016bs\u0173 atsakomyb\u0117s, su kuo i\u0161 filmavimo komandos tenka bendradarbiauti da\u017eniausiai?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u2013 Labai paprastai apibr\u0117\u017eiant, kostium\u0173 dailininko atsakomyb\u0117 yra kuo organi\u0161kiau perteikti filmo istorij\u0105 persona\u017e\u0173 kostium\u0173 pagalba. Svarbiausia \u2013 atliepti re\u017eisieriaus vizij\u0105 ir pad\u0117ti aktoriams sukurti \u012ftikinam\u0105 persona\u017e\u0105. Tod\u0117l labai glaud\u017eiai bendradarbiaujame su aktoriais, grimo departamentu, dailininkais. Jei tai tam tikra epocha, svarbu kiek \u012fmanoma tiksliau atkurti istorin\u012f kostium\u0105, kad jis atitikt\u0173 kuriam\u0105 persona\u017e\u0105. Jei tai \u0161iuolaikinis projektas, kuo taikliau i\u0161pildyti persona\u017eo charakter\u012f ir b\u016bsenas. Da\u017enai mes ir patys nevertiname, kiek daug apie mus pasako r\u016bbas, kur\u012f ne\u0161iojam. Parinktu kostiumu labai detaliai apibr\u0117\u017eiame laikotarp\u012f, socialin\u0119 pad\u0117t\u012f, da\u017enai profesij\u0105, pom\u0117gius, nuotaik\u0105, vidines b\u016bsenas ir j\u0173 kait\u0105. Taigi filmo kostiumo u\u017eduotis pasakoti tai, kas nepasakyta \u017eod\u017eiu.\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
Filmuojant Uogas_A. Aleksandravic\u030ciaus nuotr.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

\u2013 Kiek kostium\u0173 gali prireikti vienam filmui? Kada filmo k\u016brimo procese prasideda j\u016bs\u0173 darbas ir kada projekt\u0105 laikote baigtu?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u2013 Pats skai\u010dius priklauso tik nuo konkretaus scenarijaus. Gali b\u016bti t\u016bkstan\u010diai, gali b\u016bti ir vienas, jei istorijoje dalyvauja tik vienas aktorius ir visa filmo istorija \u012fvyksta per labai trump\u0105 laik\u0105. Bet net ir tokiu atveju, paprastai prireikia dubli\u0173, \u0161ilt\u0173 r\u016bb\u0173, tod\u0117l technin\u0117 kostium\u0173 baz\u0117 b\u016bna didesn\u0117 nei tai, k\u0105 matome ekrane.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Kostium\u0173 dailininkas darb\u0105 pradeda \u0161iek tiek anks\u010diau nei dauguma komandos nari\u0173. Mano manymu, pagrindin\u0117 ir turb\u016bt \u012fdomiausia dalis b\u016btent tai ir yra, kai gavus scenarij\u0173 pradedi \u201eie\u0161koti\u201c persona\u017e\u0173. Tenka gilintis \u012f \u012fvairiausius laikotarpius, istorinius \u012fvykius, kult\u016bras, subkult\u016bras, da\u017enai \u012fkvepia ir tiesiog gatv\u0117je pamatytas netik\u0117tas derinys, galerijoje pamatytas meno k\u016brinys ar perskaityta knyga. Si\u016blomus variantus aptarus su re\u017eisieriumi i\u0161sigryniname, kas yra svarbiausia kiekvienam veik\u0117jui ir tuo remiam\u0117s kostium\u0173 paie\u0161kose bei gamyboje. K\u016brybinis darbas baigiasi su paskutine filmavimo diena, techninis u\u017ebaigimas dar \u0161iek tiek u\u017etrunka. Vis tik kiekvienas filmas visada i\u0161lieka \u0161irdyje, nes kuriant j\u012f b\u0117ga ir tavo paties gyvenimas. Kartais pagalvoju, kad t\u0105 pat\u012f film\u0105 \u0161iandien jau dary\u010diau kitaip, nes pati esu kitokia. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u2013 Ar prisimenate pirm\u0105j\u012f savo kino projekt\u0105? Kas tuomet atrod\u0117 sud\u0117tingiausia, k\u0117l\u0117 daugiausiai i\u0161\u0161\u016bki\u0173? <\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u2013 Pirmas pilnametr\u017eis filmas, kuriame dirbau savaranki\u0161kai, buvo E.Vertelyt\u0117s \u201eStebuklas\u201c. Kadangi scenarijuje \u012fvykiai sukasi 90-\u0173j\u0173 prad\u017eioje ma\u017eame Lietuvos miestelyje, teko gilintis \u012f to meto aprangos niuansus, suri\u0161ant juos su konkre\u010diais persona\u017eais. Did\u017eiausias i\u0161\u0161\u016bkis be abejo buvo surinkti kuo daugiau autenti\u0161k\u0173 drabu\u017ei\u0173. \u010cia labai pad\u0117jo ir \u0161eimos nariai, gimin\u0117s, Egl\u0117s t\u0117vai. Tuo metu kiekviena filmavimo diena atrod\u0117 kaip i\u0161\u0161\u016bkis, sp\u0117ti pasiruo\u0161ti, sendinti, reaguoti \u012f besikei\u010diant\u012f filmavimo plan\u0105 ar or\u0105. Da\u017enai sunk\u016bs projektai i\u0161moko kur kas daugiau, o juos \u012fveik\u0119s paaugi ir pats.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u2013 Kokie kiti projektai, prie kuri\u0173 dirbote, jums yra \u012fsimintiniausi, labiausiai u\u017eaugin\u0119 profesine prasme? <\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u2013 \u012e galv\u0105 ateina lietuvi\u0161kas filmas \u201eNova Lituania\u201c, taip pat u\u017esienio serialai \u201eKlarkas\u201c ir  \u201eRonja\u201c.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201eNova Lituania\u201c buvo pilnas i\u0161\u0161\u016bki\u0173, nes tai juodai baltas, istorinis ir tuo metu nedidelio biud\u017eeto filmas, tod\u0117l i\u0161\u0161\u016bki\u0173 buvo ne tik renkant kostiumus, bet ir juos d\u0117liojant juodai baltoje gamoje. Nepaprastai svarbus buvo med\u017eiagiskumas, audinio fakt\u016bra, ra\u0161tai, skirtingas juodos tonas, kai skirtingos spalvos ekrane turi virsti skirting\u0173 ton\u0173 pilkom. Kitas i\u0161\u0161\u016bkis buvo, kaip minimaliais kostiumais ir j\u0173 detal\u0117mis parodyti nepaprastai gra\u017e\u0173 istorin\u012f period\u0105.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
Filmuojant Nova Lituania_ A. Aleksandravic\u030ciaus nuotr.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

\u201eKlarke\u201c dirbom su ypatingai \u0161aunia kostium\u0173 dailininke i\u0161 Jungtin\u0117s Karalyst\u0117s. Kartu su kolege reng\u0117m masini\u0173 scen\u0173 aktorius, seriale nema\u017eai skirting\u0173 praeito \u0161imtme\u010dio laikotarpi\u0173, tod\u0117l buvo ir sunku, bet nepaprastai \u012fdomu t\u0105 pat\u012f \u017emog\u0173 paversti skirting\u0173 laikotarpi\u0173 persona\u017eu vien kostiumo pagalba. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u0160ved\u0173 projektas \u201eRonja\u201c buvo \u012fdomus gilinantis \u012f dar senesnius laikus. Kadangi siu\u017eetas paremtas pasaka, kostium\u0173 dailinink\u0117 laisvai derino tiek viduram\u017ei\u0173, tiek viking\u0173 kostium\u0173 elementus. Prakti\u0161kai visi projekto kostiumai buvo gaminami rankomis. Dar ruo\u0161iantis filmavimams, teko aplankyti begal\u0119 amatinink\u0173, ie\u0161koti detali\u0173 turguose, mug\u0117se, rinkti kailius, kaulus, odas ir pan. Tokie projektai dar kart\u0105 \u012frodo, kiek daug \u012fkv\u0117pimo  galime semtis ne tik i\u0161 vakar\u0173 civilizacijos laikotarpi\u0173, bet ir i\u0161 m\u016bs\u0173 pa\u010di\u0173 etnografinio paveldo.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u2013 Kiek \u012ftakos persona\u017eo vystyme turi kostiumas? Kalbu ne tik apie estetin\u0119 jo reik\u0161m\u0119, bet ir tai, koki\u0105 nuotaik\u0105, charakterio savybes, kitus dalykus gali atskleisti, parodyti?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u2013 \u012eprastai pirm\u0105 kart\u0105 pama\u010dius heroj\u0173 ar persona\u017e\u0105 i\u0161kart susidarome vienok\u012f ar kitok\u012f \u012fsp\u016bd\u012f tik i\u0161 jo i\u0161vaizdos, \u012fskaitant kostium\u0105, grim\u0105, galb\u016bt specifin\u012f rekvizit\u0105. Kartais charakteriu tampa siluetas, kartais spalvi\u0161kumas, kartais ma\u017eos kostiumo detal\u0117s, o kartais ir tai, kaip tas kostiumas vilkimas, ar jis var\u017eo, ar kaip tik sukuria laisv\u0117s poj\u016bt\u012f. Kiekvienu konkre\u010diu atveju ie\u0161kome, kas i\u0161 anks\u010diau min\u0117t\u0173 dalyk\u0173 labiausiai leist\u0173 atsiskleisti charakteriui ir istorijos t\u0117kmei. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u2013 Kaip pavyksta atliepti re\u017eisieriaus sumanym\u0105, o tuo pa\u010diu palaikyti savo k\u016brybin\u012f brai\u017e\u0105, id\u0117jas? Kiek kostium\u0173 dailininkas turi laisv\u0117s?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u2013 Paprastai man svarbiausi\u0105 vaidmen\u012f atlieka pati istorija ir id\u0117ja, apie k\u0105 norima papasakoti ir tai duoda atspirties ta\u0161k\u0105. Vis tik da\u017eniausiai mint\u012f atsine\u0161a re\u017eisierius, tod\u0117l perskai\u010dius scenarij\u0173 ir pasikalb\u0117jus jau b\u016bna sud\u0117ti pagrindiniai akcentai nuo kuri\u0173 galima atsispirti. D\u0117liojant galimus persona\u017e\u0173 kostiumus, ie\u0161kant \u012fvaizd\u017ei\u0173 ir d\u0117liojant j\u0173 derinius bei kait\u0105 ir yra tas laisviausias etapas, nes viskas priklauso nuo tavo \u012fsivaizdavimo. Tik v\u0117liau, jau derinant juos su re\u017eisieriumi, aktoriais, operatoriumi, dailininku ir grimo dailininku ka\u017ek\u0105 kei\u010diame, pridedame ar atimame. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u2013 Kokio laikotarpio, temos kostiumus jums kurti \u012fdomiausia?\u00a0Turite m\u0117gstam\u0105 \u017eanr\u0105 ar laikotarp\u012f?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u2013 Negal\u0117\u010diau i\u0161skirt konkretaus laikotarpio ar temos, nes supratau, kad dirbant prie istorinio filmo pasiilgstu \u0161iuolaikinio ir atvirk\u0161\u010diai. Lygiai tas pats su temomis. Kiekvien\u0105 kart\u0105 \u012fsitikinu, kad ne\u012fdomi\u0173 tem\u0173 ar laikotarpi\u0173 turb\u016bt n\u0117ra, susidom\u0117jimas atsiranda pradedant \u012f ka\u017ek\u0105 gilintis. Kai dirbu filme, jis tuo momentu b\u016bna pats svarbiausias, visi juo gyvenam, j\u012f pergyvenam, tema vienaip ar kitaip palie\u010dia ir vidin\u012f pasaul\u012f. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Da\u017enai nutinka taip, kad atrandi nepaprastai gra\u017ei\u0173, \u012fdomi\u0173, prasming\u0173 dalyk\u0173 ir negali vis\u0173 j\u0173 parodyti, nes tiesiog nereikalingai perkrausi vaizd\u0105. Kartais randi nepaprastai savit\u0105 siluet\u0105, bet tokio veik\u0117jo scenarijuje nerandi, tada ne\u0161iojiesi tuos vaizdinius ir lauki projekto, kai gal\u0117si juos panaudoti. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u2013 Kokio i\u0161\u0161\u016bkio sau, kaip kostium\u0173 dailininkei, palink\u0117tum\u0117te ateityje?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u2013 Tam tikra prasme, kiekvienas naujas filmas man yra i\u0161\u0161\u016bkis. Scenarijaus ir persona\u017e\u0173 narstymas visada yra \u012fdomus, nes bet kokiu atveju, ar tai yra pra\u0117j\u0119s laikotarpis su istoriniais kostiumais, ar \u0161i\u0173 laik\u0173 istorija apie vieni\u0161\u0105 \u017emog\u0173, visada kuri nauj\u0105 savit\u0105 pasaul\u012f. Galb\u016bt dar n\u0117ra tek\u0119 dirbti prie filmo, kuris n\u0117ra susij\u0119s nei su konkre\u010diu laikotarpiu, nei istorija, kur gali atsirasti bet kas ir bet kada. Manau, kad i\u0161 vienos pus\u0117s b\u016bt\u0173 labai \u012fdomu, kai niekas nevar\u017eyt\u0173 laisv\u0117s, i\u0161 kitos pus\u0117s, gan sud\u0117tinga, nes neb\u016bt\u0173 atspirties ta\u0161k\u0173 ir visas vizualinis pasaulis priklausyt\u0173 tik nuo k\u016brybin\u0117s komandos. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u2013 D\u0117koju u\u017e pokalb\u012f.<\/strong><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

\u201eDa\u017enai mes ir patys nevertiname, kiek daug apie mus pasako r\u016bbas, kur\u012f ne\u0161iojame\u201c, \u2013 pasakoja kino kostium\u0173 dailinink\u0117 Monika V\u0117brait\u0117. K\u016brusi tokiems Lietuvos ir u\u017esienio filmams bei TV serialams kaip \u201eRonja, pl\u0117\u0161iko dukt\u0117\u201c, \u201eTokijo teismas\u201c, \u201eStebuklas\u201c, \u201eNova Lituania\u201c ir kt. ji neabejoja: kostiumais filme taip pat galima pasakoti istorij\u0105. Pla\u010diau apie kino kostium\u0173 dailinink\u0117s specialyb\u0119  […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":6,"featured_media":26312,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0,"footnotes":""},"categories":[161,58,100],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-26305","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-interviu","category-news","category-su-veidais"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nKino kostium\u0173 dailinink\u0117 Monika V\u0117brait\u0117: \u201eDa\u017enai nevertiname, kiek daug apie mus pasako r\u016bbas, kur\u012f ne\u0161iojame\u201c - Vilnius film office<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Kino kostium\u0173 dailinink\u0117 Monika V\u0117brait\u0117: \u201eDa\u017enai nevertiname, kiek daug 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